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There’s a thin line between decadence and madness. At The Party inside Superfrico’s speakeasy-esque hideaway, that line doesn’t just blur, it disappears entirely.
Enter through the reliquary, a velvet-swathed liminal space that feels like you’ve stumbled into the surreal memory of a wilder Vegas. Laurie Hagen, host and high priestess of this vivid dream, greets each guest like an old friend, or maybe an accomplice. She takes a moment to learn your name. She pours you bubbly rosé from a claw-foot tub filled with ice and bottles, apologizes for her ice-cold hands, then locks eyes like she’s already chosen you for something. Something fun. Something possibly dangerous.
“I created this extended version of myself to be brave enough to go and, you know, be more outrageous,” Hagen says. Outrageous is exactly what she delivers.
Creekstone Farms petite filet, tiramisu, cocktails and more
Photo by: Spiegelworld / Courtesy
The main room—shared by a wall with Superfrico’s more traditional dining chaos—is soaked in whimsy and subversion. And for only moments throughout the two-hour experience, you can hear the clatter of the entirely different world next door.
The Party guests, just 50 a night, fill in slowly, unsure if they’re in for dinner or a circus initiation. Spoiler: it’s both.
Mark Ogge’s circus-themed paintings are impossible to ignore. They hang like wild hallucinations on the walls of the main dining room, only adding to a head-on-a-swivel motion as you try to take it all in.
The food arrives in waves, with performances strategically breaking the meal like punctuation. The chef-curated, three-course menu costs $150 per guest and not only fills you up, it leaves you impressed with taste and presentation. One of the appetizer options, the tuna tartare, is served with puffed crackers and a dollop of truffle lime vinaigrette, which disappears in a few decadent bites. Then the lights switch, music swells, and suddenly you’re witnessing one of nine performers doing what they do best—blowing your mind.
Back to the table. Gnocchi, petite filet, or branzino—each dish bold, precise, and worthy of its own spotlight on your Instagram story. Sip the Bossa Hova, a $24 portion of Tito’s honeydew, pineapple Strega and bay leaf—and you just might forget that you’re sitting in a small portion of a massive casino resort and not on a beachfront.
It’s difficult to pick a favorite act in Spiegelworld’s latest creation—the company continues its Strip offerings with Absinthe, Atomic Saloon and DiscoShow—but when Denis Lock’s bubble routine fills the air with shimmering orbs, I catch myself slack-jawed and childlike. “It’s so magical,” Hagen says. “You can just sit back and become a child again ... I think it’s the perfect way to start a gorgeous appetizer.”
Later, you might find yourself assisting a juggler, flirting with MooNaysha the udder thrusting glam-cow, or shouting for Gypsy Wood to keep one of her many spinning plates in motion.
“That’s so much fun for us performers,” Hagen says. “We get to watch each other shine and see how the audience reacts. It’s different every single time. It’s a pretty lovely recipe for us.”
It’s a recipe that relies on equal parts chaos and communion. You arrive strangers, and by dessert—seasonal gelatos or an espresso-soaked tiramisu—you’ve laughed, gasped, maybe danced with fellow partygoers. You leave a little tipsy, a little starstruck, wishing the evening didn’t have to come to an end.
THE PARTY Wednesday-Sunday, 7 p.m., $150. Cosmopolitan, spiegelworld.com.
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