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Like the majority of the sprawling Fontainebleau resort on the north Strip, there’s nothing that feels like Las Vegas within Mother Wolf, LA chef Evan Funke’s homage to the cuisine of Rome. But every inch of this glamorous restaurant and every moment of this dining experience feels special, and that, of course, is the ultimate objective of every venue on the Strip.
In Hollywood, the original Mother Wolf is a celebrity magnet, one of those tough-reservation hot spots. That energy doesn’t always translate to Vegas casino locations, but our recent visit found this golden-hued, comfortably resplendent space packed and buzzing.This has to be one of the new favorites for bachelorette party dinners and other stylish folks traveling with a friend group.
But once you’re settled into your intimate booth or table, the surrounding energy drifts distant and attentive service creates a warm bubble around your friend group. The Roman focus distinguishes Mother Wolf from so many other terrific Italian restaurants lining the Strip, and the menu is conveniently constructed for easy choices and maximum table sharing.
Sfincione ($14), Funke’s signature focaccia bread, is a must. Same goes for appetizers of crispy short rib meatballs ($31), served with slightly sweet tomato sauce and pecorino cheese, and delicately fried squash blossoms ($28) filled with a creamy, melty cloud of ricotta. To contrast all that richness, add the finocchi e mele salad ($24), crisp shaved fennel, honeycrisp apple and lemon with extra virgin olive oil and a bit of parmigiano reggiano. These three dishes are absolutely made for each other. Great job ordering!
Now you face the challenge of which pastas and pizzas to try. For us, it was wild mushroom pie ($38) on that crisp, blistered Roman-style crust, followed by tonarelli cacio e pepe, linguine with manila clams and a rigatoni carbonara ($35) that inspired grand eyeball rolling and a metaphorical standing ovation from the most Italian person among us. Locals and tourists alike all have that one Strip restaurant with the pasta dish we rave about; you know what yours is. Mother Wolf is the updated version.
The “secondi” dishes are the centerpiece, big ticket bites like grilled whole Mediterranean sea bass ($94) or prime ribeye cap ($78) with patate fritte and wild arugula. You can definitely dine here without going this big, but you might regret it. And you cannot skip dessert, ricotta cheesecake or tiramisu or an incredible chocolate tart with red wine tart cherries and vanilla gelato, perhaps with a dram of fine Amaro to close. If you don’t have the full experience, you’ll just have to come back.
MOTHER WOLF Fontainebleau, 702-678-9170, motherwolflv.com. Sunday-Thursday, 5-10:30 p.m.; Friday & Saturday, 4-11 p.m.
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