José Andrés is a prolific restaurateur with more than a half-dozen venues in the Las Vegas Valley alone. Perpetual change seems to be constant for the globe-trotting chef as in recent months, he’s seen both a shift and expansion in his local venues.
In September, the epic Bazaar Meat relocated from the Sahara down the Strip to the Palazzo after a decade-long run. If you never had the chance to visit the original spot, the hunting-lodge-gone-awry space tucked away in the back of the property was a sought-after experience not only in Vegas, but across the country—but finding it was a Herculean task.
With its relocation, visibility is certainly not a concern. At Palazzo, Bazaar has been afforded a premier location directly off the hotel lobby with a dedicated grand staircase leading to its front door. Instead of rustic, the space is modern with a muted crimson lounge with wait-‘til-you-see-it ceiling light displays transitioning into the bright, airy main dining room inspired by the original Bazaar in Los Angeles. And unlike the Sahara spot, this incarnation has an actual view of the Strip.
Happily, the menu and staff have stayed mostly intact. The experience still leans on tableside preparations and whimsical offerings with only slight tweaks, because why fix what’s not broken? Classics such as the sharp A5 Wagyu “Philly cheesesteak” air bread ($17) , playful bison Buffalo-style carpaccio ($26), and buttered potato puree ($18)—aka potatoes à la Robuchon—remain must-haves, with fire-roasted king crab ($145) topped with an unctuous brown butter dashi brûlée a worthy new addition.
As with any move, some aspects are still working themselves out. The space feels more frenetic, while wine pairings—a hallmark of the original—are somewhat more conservative as the staff finds ways to service a much larger room. But having been an ardent Bazaar diner since its inception, I’m confident this esteemed venue has another outstanding decade ahead of it.
Down the Strip in the Forum Shops at Caesars Palace, Andrés has opened the fifth location of his Mediterranean concept, Zaytinya. I have many fond memories of the original in Washington, D.C., and I still reminisce of a ridiculously over-the-top, Anthony Bourdain-inspired tasting menu from 2013.
Rather than being situated in the middle of the city, our Zaytinya is housed in a former Forum Shops warehouse space. Complementing the menu, the space is awash with earth tones and accented by the blues of the sea, nowhere more prominently than the striking back bar, where you can sidle up for an impressive happy hour menu all day during dinner hours. And it’s serving up classic Mediterranean fare with the usual Andrés twist.
Begin by diving into spreads, where I highly suggest the hommus kawarma ($18), hummus topped with savory sauteed lamb and pine nuts for texture, and the slightly smoky baba ghannouge ($13). Dill-accented tzatziki ($13), on the other hand, is simply passable. All are served with endless waves of piping-hot, fluffy pita you won’t want to skip. In fact, be sure to save some for one of the menu’s edgier offerings: avgotaraho ($18). The funky, oceanic treat—sea salt-cured mullet roe better known as bottarga—is delivered in slices for which the pita provides well-deserved balance.
Other standout mezze to start with include subtle seared halloumi ($17) decorated with dates, peaches, and pomegranate seeds, and shish taouk ($17), za’taar-infused chicken skewers accompanied by a modestly pungent garlic toum.
Entrée-wise, your go-to should be the celebration rice ($38-$55). Served typically at Persian festivities, the dish delivers fluffy basmati rice strewn with almonds, pistachios and dried cherries. But best of all is the adornment of crispy tadig, the Persian version of socarrat, the super delicious, crispy, caramelized rice at the bottom of a paella pan.
As always, Andrés has a concept for you, no matter your preference or mood. His Vegas legacy stays strong with the updated Bazaar Meat and fresh experience at Zaytinya.
ZAYTINYA Forum Shops at Caesars, 702-276-2000, zaytinya.com. Monday-Thursday, 5-9 p.m.; Friday, 5-10 p.m.; Saturday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.
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