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Don’t mind the cat. The black panther that haunts the hi-def LED “windows” of Prowl—a new jungle-themed cocktail bar located next door to Stray Pirate in the Arts District, and co-owned and operated by that canine buccaneer bar’s Chris “Tater” Gutierrez —isn’t stalking you. Rather, the cat feels like a host, unobtrusively walking the floor, making sure Prowl’s cocktails, service and vibe are hitting the sweet spot. And it looks pleased with what it sees. It’s got jungle love.
Though they neighbor each other and have some superficial similarities, Stray Pirate and Prowl have differences that go beyond theme. (The feel of Stray Pirate is more whimsical than the dark, atmospheric Prowl.) Gutierrez, a veteran of several prominent Downtown spots including Oak & Ivy, Corduroy and Atomic Liquors, readily spells out the key difference: He intends for Prowl to be the place where he and his crew can build upon the superb cocktail culture that’s swiftly forming in the 18b.
“Everybody that comes around here is always super eager to have what’s on the menu,” he says. “At Stray Pirate, we sell more merchandise than beers, by two to three times. … It’s remarkable, how much more people are engaged in the cocktails we sell (at Prowl).”
Not surprising at all, considering how strongly Prowl’s creative list of craft cocktails comes on from the go. The Neon Flamingo ($14) brings together Worthy Park 109 rum, Charanda Urapan rum and Aperol with strawberries and acidified pineapple; the taste is every bit as bright and electrifying as its namesake. Anchorman stans will pounce on the Sex Panther ($15), a potent mix of Corrido Reposado, Camazotz Oaxacan rum, Ancho Reyes, roasted pepita orgeat, lime, cilantro oil and, as you’d expect, “bits of real panther.” (While that’s unlikely, it’s very probable that 60% of the time, this drink works every time.)
The enticingly named For a Good Time, Call 1-888-87-PROWL ($15) is a “meow-ito style” concoction of Four Square Probitas rum, Chinola passionfruit liqueur, vanilla, mint, lime and a bit of bubbly, and its flirty flavor is roughly analogous to what you get if you call up that borderline NSFW phone number. The Monstera Mash ($15) features Capurra Quebranta pisco—a South American delight Gutierrez describes as “an un-aged brandy”—in delicious concert with sugar snap pea, mint, elderflower, cardamom, lime, egg white and sea salt. It tastes every bit as complex as the grocery list that goes into it.
And attention absolutely must be paid to the Tropical Howler ($15), a choose-your-own-base-spirit adventure that features a generous splash of Prowl’s housemade ginger beer, garnished with hibiscus and a kaffir lime leaf. “It’s kind of a layup for us,” Gutierrez says with pride. “We make that with any and all spirits that we have behind the bar. It goes great with gin, goes great with mezcal and pisco. And I’m happy to do one in the vein of a Moscow Mule with vodka.”
Gutierrez stresses that Prowl’s approach isn’t intended to be more elevated than Stray Pirate. “I’m totally okay with the idea of you saying I like Stray Pirate better than Prowl. We weren’t trying to empty out half of one to fill the other.”
Rather, he likes the idea of Prowl feeling a bit more experimental, while still approachable. A bit more wildcat.
“I’m a firm believer in making a cocktail menu somebody can wrap their brain around,” Gutierrez says. “I like to expose somebody to new, unique cocktails, but at the same time I’m looking for you to not be too scared away by it. … I’m gonna try to encourage you to have a drink with a few ingredients that I know you’ll enjoy, that you’re familiar with. I’ll make sure they’re fresh and tasty, and maybe there’s a remaining 15% of mystery that comes along with it.”
PROWL 1323 S. Commerce St., 725-550-8355, prowllv.com. Monday-Thursday, 5 p.m.-midnight; Friday, 4 p.m.-midnight; Saturday, 2 p.m.-1 a.m.; Sunday, 2 p.m.-midnight.
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